A Classic Fade Haircut by a Master Barber

—Josh Lawson

Owen is with Mahesh at Gentleman & Rogues Club for a haircut and beard trim. He wants a 2 on the sides and a little bit off the top. He's never had his beard this long before, and doesn't really know what to do with it. So, he's here for some advice as well. It'll mainly be a maintenance trim after the haircut.

Mahesh starts with the 2 on a closed guard. He creates the weight line right above the temple, then flicks out. The clippers go all the way around the head and dip down around the back like usual. Then he takes a 1.5 so he can taper the edges and keep the nice and clean. This really helps take out some of the weight on the sides. Clipper over comb is done around that weight line he made earlier, so he can work to blend the edges. The whole cut is a very soft one. He's not looking for sharp edges and making a statement. He just wants to blend the edges and give a sympathetic haircut.

For the top, he wants to grow it out. So, what Mahesh is gonna do it take a bit of the weight out and cut off the dead ends. This'll make it feel a lot lighter, and add a bunch of texture to it. Mahesh works with Owen's hair still dry so he can see the blend and keep working on it as the cut continues. Once he gets to the point of adding texture, that's when he'll dampen the hair. For that, he sections off small pieces and cuts up and through. This gives a ton of texture, while also leaving a lot of length. Instead of always using thinning scissors or texturizing scissors, this a nice technique that can save you a little time.

For the beard, the length usually comes from the middle whereas your cheeks help it appear fuller. For now, they're gonna clean up the lip area. It's the part that's most likely to push you to shave your beard. Normally he'd trim the beard with clippers, but since it is so new he's gonna use scissors. They still want to maintain the length and density, so he's only cutting some of the strays. At this stage of growth, Mahesh recommends getting a beard trim every other haircut.

For now, they clean up the neck hair and keep the cheekline more natural. Then, to finish off the cut, Mahesh applies a liberal amount of Sea Salt Spray to Owen's hair and blow it dry. For the beard, they use Styling Balm to hold the shape they created in place.

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