An Updated Twist on the Classic Buzzcut

—Josh Lawson

Tim is in Gentleman and Rogue's Club to get his hair cut by Dave. They are gonna take his hair down really short and skin the sides. Tim has a little bit of a parting that has already been put in the hair, so Dave has to try and take the hair down to a level where that can grow out naturally. Basically, the cut is gonna be a skin fade with a 3 on top.

To start, he takes the clippers with a 3 guard across the top. This gives a baseline to continue the rest of the cut. Dave moves the clippers against the grain until he gets to the crown. Once there, he does short diagonal motions across it to make sure the end result there is even as well. If you don't work against the grain you get left with long tufts of hair.

Since this is a fade, Dave knocks out the sides while he's up here so he won't have to do it later. That makes the rest of the fade easier since he can just work his way down the cut instead of up and retrace is steps more often. Next, you find the occipital bone and figure out if you're gonna go above or below it. In this case, we're gonna go higher. Dave has is 0 guard and shaves up to a point above the occipital bone and makes a line across the head from ear to ear. During cuts like this, it is important to take a step back and see if your line is even. If you just focus up close, you might mess up the line.

Tim wants to keep the beard, so they agree to taper it into the sideburns and temple area. Dave likes to put it right at the transition between the ear and the head. He shaves from there to just above the temple and right in line with the eyebrow. From there, you can arch the fade line back, make it straight, or made it a slight dip. Dave just does a little dip around the head with a straight line at the back of the neck.

This isn't a bald fade, so we won't be using the foils in this cut. He just takes a 0 clipper around the head. To start off the rest of the fade, Dave uses a 2 around the sides to take out some of the weight. He doesn't go right against the head, but, instead, he flicks out just above the hairs.

Dave then move to a 1 and create a new guideline about an inch above the 0 guideline. The higher you go with the 1, the smother the fade will be. To blend the lines, he moves through the guard level between both of the lines. Where the 0 line meets the fade, he takes a .25 and flicks away at the bits that seem a little darker than the others. Then for the higher weight line, Dave takes a 1.75 and blends it in. To really make the rest of the fade seamless he takes from scissors and a comb, to make the transition between guards look even better.

The area where the parting used to be will look a little dark for now, but as he grows it back out the hairs will lighten up. Tim wants his fringe to be squared off, so Dave takes the detailers and creates sharp lines along the temple. Then he trims the hair in the front and makes sure not to go too far in since they don't want to give him a new hairline.

To taper the beard, they use a 1.5 guard to work from the bottom of the ear toward the top and angling out as he goes to create that faded look. Tim wants to line up the rest of his beard as well. Dave trims the hair right above the lip by following the line it makes. Then he clears any hairs that are along the neck. This is more of a shape up instead of a trim. He enjoys the length he has, so Dave uses a comb and scissors along the sides to finish the ta[er he started earlier. To finish it all off, they use a straight razor along the cheeks to clear any stray. Then he gives a liberal dose of Temple Smoke Beard Oil for his beard and hair.

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