A Ginger Beard for the Modern Man

—Josh Lawson

Nathan is at Gentleman & Rogues Club to get his beard trimmed by Dave. He's come in before, so Dave knows that Nathan likes it squared off. They didn't take much off the bottom, but rather they focused on the sides. Before they start the trimming process, Dave quickly blow dries the beard and lengthens it out using a round brush.

Once that is done, Nathan said he is happy with how long his beard is now. It is just the thickness of the beard that is the issue. What they are going to be doing today is tapering out the thickness on the sides, and take nothing off the bottom except a few stray hairs.

Dave starts by following the line at the bottom of the beard, and follows that to the neck. That gives him a nice guideline to start with and a shape to follow. Anything you take off the sides will really accentuate an "L" shape with the bottom. Dave uses a clipper and a comb on Nathan's beard and angles it slightly out to create the tapered look. He looks in the mirror as he goes to make sure both sides are even. After that part is done, he likes to freehand the rest. It makes creating a shape much easier.

Since his beard is so thick, he has to constantly pull the beard out with the comb, to see what you are cutting into instead of just constantly pushing it back in. You might think you've trimmed something, but when you pull it back out it can look like you cut nothing at all.

At the front of his beard Nathan's hair lies flat, so Dave cuts at an angle so he can trim the few hairs that shoot out. He doesn't need to comb the front out since it is so straight. Next he moves on to the jawline. They want to keep it at the same angle as the cheek line, so his goal is to make them parallel. There is room for some difference, but it can't be super noticeable. Dave makes sure to keep the slope looking the same.

To help get the beard in shape, Dave breaks out a Boars Hair Bristle Brush and pulls it through Nathan's beard. After brushing all around the beard, you will be able to see any stray hairs that they can trim to maintain the shape of the beard. This also helps trim any hairs to keep the beard tidy with a pair of scissors.

Next he moves on to the heel, which is the area near the ear. Dave uses the detailers to line up the back of the beard there. After that, they work on lining up the cheeks and above the stache to take away a few hairs and make it tidy. He doesn't move the detailer into the beard but instead takes away any new growth. Since Nathan has a pretty full beard, they don't really need to measure when trimming the neck. Instead, Dave takes away any new growth and clears out any spare hairs that have grown in. He wants the stache to be nice and tight, so they use the detailers to get rid of all the hairs that fall in front of Nathan's lip. Dave also makes sure to trim the bits that have grown up in front of the lip as well.

They use the foils to clear the area around the neck and behind the beard. Then it's time for the scissors. He looks at the beard from a side profile to see any stray hairs and just clips them with the scissors. This isn't about any bulk cuts, but rather just a few hairs here and there. Lastly, they use a straight razor to line up the cheeks and the heel of the beard. To help the rest of the beard lay flat, they use a little bit of Temple Smoke Beard Oil for some moisture, and use Tree Ranger Styling Balm to hold the beard in place as well as tame some of those crazy hairs.

Keep on Growing!

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