Dave is with us for a Beardbrand barbershop video again, and this time he's going for a skin close fade and a trim off the top of his customer's hair. It's actually pretty complicated.
So Many Guidelines
Dave combs through the hair to identify any potential variants in growth or shape, then uses clippers with a closed 2.0 guard to create his first guideline. He creates the guideline at about 1-1.5 inches above the point where the skin fade will begin.
He clips up with the grain of hair, rather than across the fade. He mentions that he's going for a hybrid of a a fade and an executive contour for this look, so he's leaving in the crown of hair and a generous amount of on top to get this effect.
Dave then creates new guidelines with an unguarded clipper, taking special care to contour his guides for variance in the surface of the head (in this case, a small lump on the skull). He takes that guideline across the occipital bone for a guide on how high on the back of the head he should fade.
He uses a comb to measure guidelines on each side of the head to account for asymmetry. Carlos mentions that some gentleman prefer one side having a higher fade than the other to account for this asymmetry, but Dave reserves that only for requests or if the asymmetry of the head is very prominent.
Dave uses an open 0.5 guard to blend in the sideburn for his client. After that, he uses a 1.5 guard to create a third guideline around the head about an inch under the the first guideline, taking special care to keep the guidelines meticulous and parallel. He blends the bottom of the hairline with a 0.75 guard, then carefully finishes fading with unguarded clippers and an even closer shave with a foil.
After wetting down and combing the client's hair, Dave assesses what direction and lines the hair grows in. He pulls the hair up and away from his client and cuts at an angle. He's able to use each section he cuts as a guide to trim accurately.
Dave busts out the scissors and comb scissors to free-hand the rest of the haircut, making sure the cut is balanced and evenly weighted through the cut. Comb scissors are particularly helpful when learning how to fade and cut hair - it's much more efficient than a standard scissor and comb combination.
He uses the heel of his razor to sharpen up the client's temples, then assesses his cut to make sure the "weight" of the fade is where he wants to be.
He applies a bit of volume powder for the client's thin hair (Sea Salt Spray is a great alternative in most cases), then styles according to the client's taste.