How to Cut Thick Hair into a Pompadour and Trim Down Your Beard

—Josh Lawson

Carl stopped by Gentleman & Rogues Club to get a pompadour haircut and neat beard trim from Charlie. He already has a side part on the right side. It has grown out a bit, but the line is still there. Charlie wants to do a 0.5 guard fade and trim the beard into a point. The .5 will go to about the temple, fade up about an inch then scissor cut the weight so Carl can slick back his hair. The fringe will be longer than the back, that way it will sit nice and tight.

Carl's hair has grown out a lot since his last cut, so Charlie is gonna in with some clippers first to take the weight out. He picks up the hair with his comb, leaves the spine of it on the temple, and removes the bulk of the hair. He then creates the rough shape of the haircut using the comb. Charlie does this because if he went in right away with the 0.5 guard he wouldn't be able to see a thing of what he was doing. As he moves up the neck with the comb, he slowly angles it out more.

Now he takes the .5 and follows the beard line up to about the temple. This leaves Carl with a nice line that Charlie can follow later when he moves on to trim the beard. He moves the clippers around to deal with each type of growth pattern he encounters. Then he takes the .5 guard to the neck, and notes how it's much easier to trim now that the weight it down from what he did earlier. It only took him about a minute but saved him a lot of time in the long run.

Next he takes the trimmers and gets rid of the random hairs that the clippers missed. He also sharpens up the beard line since he has the tool in his hand already. Now he goes in to make his second line a flick above the baseline. Charlier goes back to the 0.5, opens them slightly, and flicks it between the two lines he's already made and creates the iconic look of a fade.

Clippers have been switched again for one where the teeth are closer together. He then uses an angled out comb to get rid of any small hairs he may have missed. Next, he wets Carl's hair and combs it down, then gets out his handy scissors for an over comb technique. He keeps his hand still and just moves his finger. Charlie keeps cutting and slightly moves the angle of the comb. For the crown area, he finds the two shortest hairs and connects them but cutting the hairs in the middle. With the top, he's making the hair form a gradient of length. The shortest hairs in the back, and the longest bits up front near the fringe. He changes the angle of his fingers every once in a while to make sure it's all even. Then Charlie point cuts the front of Carl's hair to give it some texture and dimension. He also changes the side he parts it on just to double check his work.

After drying the hair, he thins the wave of the pompadour to get rid some of the weight. This makes the cut look and feel lighter and easier to style.

On to the beard, Carl wants to keep the length and squares the sides without taking too much off the front. He covers the ear to protect it and uses scissors to trim the ends and preserve some the general shape of the beard. Then he moves on the underside. Working his way around but staying away from the chin. To tidy up the neck hairs, Charlie uses detailers to give Carl a neat and clean neckline. Then he uses foils on the cheek line and around the neck to get rid of any of the super small hairs he may have missed.