Getting a Low Fade with a Ton of Texture on Top

—Josh Lawson

Ricky is at Gentleman & Rogue's Club today to get his hair cut by Dave. He wants a medium to low skin fade, but not too much off the top. Dave creates a basline across the head with a 2 guard. He uses a "C" motion as he flicks out at the top. Once the baseline is done, they take out the rest of the hair under it. Then he switches to a 1 guard and moved the line up slightly. After that, he works on blending the line using a .5 guard and a .75 guard. Since Ricky has fair hair, the fade is much easier.

For the back of the neck and the sides, he removes the hair he can with the detailer. He makes sure the hair is nice and short so the foils cant snag on anything. Since he's had a low/medium fade for a bit, there isn't much to foil. He starts using the foils and flicks out near the top. If you do create a line with the foils, you can blend it with a detailer. Different tools work with different foils, so it's trial and error to see what works. As the fade goes on, he decides if he wants to move the baseline higher. Near the end of the cut, he changes to a 1.5 guard and moves the lever so it's in 1.75 position then works around Ricky's head.

He took the fade just below the occipital bone, but he's taking out a slight dark patch with a 1.5. Then with blending the sideburns, you really only need to go from a 1, to a .75, then to a .5 and you're good to go.

Since the top is just a light trim, Dave dampens the hair down and combs it forward. He sections it out, and cuts from back to front. To add more texture he does point cutting. This also helps not take off too much length, like he asked. The fringe is always the longest point, so Dave point cuts it as well, and at a slight angle. To blend the sides more, he grabs a bit and connects the two shortest points. Then Dave uses a scissor over comb to soften the look.

To get a last bit of texture in there, he uses thinning shears across the hair. Then he does some reverse texturizing, which almost feels like he's cutting all Ricky's hair off, but he's not. To finish it all off, he adds Sea Salt Spray then dries the hair. Then he's on his way home!