Keith from Soho here at Cut and Grind for a hair do with Sam.
When the beard starts growing in it kicks outward so Sam wants to bring it back in and sharpen it up on the jaw and throat up towards the chin. The cheeks will get a little clean up for a clean but natural border and finish it up with a nice clean lip.
Start with the mini trimmers to create a border at the sideburns and create a tidy area where the beard starts to kick outward and hooks back toward the ears. We want it to sit sharper and cleaner and doesn’t take away from the fullness of the beard. When you start cutting into the beard too much you create more work, more to take care of when beards are to avoid shaving, right? Next Sam brings up the neckline right where the beard hair growth starts to change direction so it doesn’t flip out. According to Sam, the beard should never go past the adam’s apple because at that point you are essentially doing an undercut on the beard with ultimately takes away from the overall fullness and density. It isn’t about creating a hard line at the base but taking out the excess, the bit that sticks out because of a strong growth pattern. This also helps it grow out more evenly without stubble a few days after the trim. For the main throat channel, comb it all out and see what sticks out. Freehand those excess hairs that stick out. He likes to lay the client back for this to get a bird's eye view. It allows a more close up view than in the mirror. This more natural style trim allows Keith to go longer between trims.
For the Stache
With a full beard like this Sam likes a more straight lip not a gradual line because he feels that it makes the stache looks a bit too short compared to the rest of the beard. To achieve this Sam just uses the trimmers at the very top of the lip.
Finally Sam razors the fine hairs on the cheeks for a polished finale.
Beard oil to soften and condition the skin and beard.