Short Cut for Thick Hair

Wil Mouradian

Dave is here for another barbershop video at Gentleman and Rogue's Club. Todays' client has an especially thick and coarse head of hair, which responds better to a brush than it does to a comb.

The Blend

After brushing out the customer's hair, Dave trims the side of the head with clippers at a 2.0 guard. He trims from the traigus area all the way to the receding line at the temple. From there he lowers the guard to a 1.5 and trims the side of the head to about an inch below the recede line. He'll blend the two levels with a 1.75 guard. On the back of the head, he blends just above the occipital vein area.

Dave then fades the back of the head using the various settings on his clippers to get the most accurate and natural looking blend possible, using 4 subtly different lengths to achieve this smooth effect.

Sharpen the Edge

After evening out the blend of the sides and back of the haircut, Dave sharpens up the edge of the haircut, beard, and temple with an unguarded clipper.

The Haircut

This customer is going to have a "forward" hairstyle, where the hair grows towards the front of the face, so Dave is going to work on his haircut from the back of his head to the front. He uses a Wahl comb and scissors to manually cut and trim the top of the hair. Dave angles his trims so they'll point into a short mohawk shape at the top of the haircut.

Finishing Touches

After blending the sides and back into the haircut, he goes over the crown of the cut with a 3.0 guard to even out any longer hairs he missed.

Dave cleans up the cut with no guard clippers and a straight razor shave, paying extra care to detail and safety when creating the edges of the beard and haircut near the ear and jaw.

The client is a motorcycle owner, so he declines any product (though his haircut is prefect for Styling Balm, if we do say so ourselves).

Next articles

Type your comment

Please note: comments must be approved before they are published.