An Army Fade with an Updated Look and a Square Beard Trim

—Josh Lawson

Ryan's come to Gentlemen & Rogues Club to see Darren for a beard trim and hair cut. He wants to take the sides in on his beard, a little of length from the bottom and take a little bit of weight out of it to make it thinner for the summer. Then he wants to bring the sides of his hair up and length on top so he can slick it back. Darren is gonna taper it up from a zero and start where the beard and sideburns meet using the line from the cheek to the ear as a guide. He starts with a hard line at first to create another guide but later will go back in and soften it up. He creates more sections at another guard level to create layers that he will fade together. Darren tries to avoid the crown, cutting around the curvature of the head as to preserve the shape of the head. Then cleans up the guiding line of the beard so he will know where to start later.

Starting with a comb and scissors near the top, He creates a subtle line to bring the hairline up to the length Ryan wanted. He does this to maintain control. It gives him more options. Then he takes the clippers and trims up the remaining hairs, and squares it off. Darren leaves the top as is for now because he wants to focus on the beard first to determine how much he needs to take off the top so they will compliment each other. He likes to freehand a lot when dealing with beards. Before even touching clippers, scissors, or trimmers, he combs through Ryan's beard to get all the hairs the way he wants them. Darren then goes in with trimmers, standing at an angle from Ryan, and using a forehand grip for one side and, while standing in the same place, a backhand grip for the other side. The initial look of the beard from a straight-on view is a square shape, but then he goes back in the trim it up to shape it the way Ryan was asking for.

Now he puts on a two guard and follows the hard line along the cheekbone without pushing it right against the skin. He slowly moves further and further in watching to see when the density is desirable, then goes in with an open one guard to taper the beard along the sideburns. Darren is trying to keep a little bit of the length and weight from the front of the hair, so he angles his fingers to slowly decrease the length of hair toward the back and maintain the shape Ryan already had. Lastly, he uses texturizers to leave the hair with a soft finish.

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