A Swept-Back Haircut with a Lot of Volume

—Josh Lawson

George is at Gentleman & Rogues Club to get his hair cut by Dave. He wants short on the back and sides, about a 1 or a .5, and get it swept back with some volume. Before continuing with the cut, Dave checks to see if he has enough length to do that. He damps it down and runs a comb through it to see if it reaches the back of the head. It does, so they're good to go.

Dave decides to go with a .5 since it will make the contrast between the top and sides look really good. They pull a horseshoe section around the head to collect all the hair on top and create a shape for this cut. Dave checks to make sure the sections he made for George are even, then takes out the clippers. He goes in with a 2, just to clear out a bulk of the weight. This will end up being the top of the .5 fade. He doesn't want to go too high as he still wants George to have some shape to the haircut. That weight line will be combed back and flow with the rest of the haircut when it is dry.

George's hair was cut unevenly last time he had a trim, so Dave checks his lines again to make sure the sides are even and trims off the overlying hairs. It doesn't matter that they might look a little strange right now because they will be blended in with the top later. After that, he switches over to the .5 and creates a guideline. Around the occipital bone, you can either choose to go lower or higher. Since they want a drastic contract, they choose to go higher. From that line, he blends up by working through the guards until he gets back to the 2. He clears out the bottom of the fade with an open 0 guard. Dave uses the comb to check the fade for any imperfections.

Next, they work on lining up the edges of the cut. The main areas to focus on are the sideburns, the temples, and the forehead. He goes back to a 0 on the trimmers to clear the back of the neck and finishes it up with a quick run through of the foils.

Instead of just going in with scissors while it's wet to start taking off chunks of hair, Dave dries George's hair to see how it lays naturally. It helps if you pull from the back and work it down and toward the back of the neck. After drying it all, he can see that one side is shorter than the other, so he cuts the longer side to match. For the area near the crown, he grabs a handful and connects the two shortest points which help blend that area. To get some of the awkward hairs out of there, they use some thinning scissors and a comb.

Since George has a double crown or two cowlicks, that makes the last part of this trim a little more difficult. You can either wear it short or comb it back. Since he wants to comb it back, they cut the hair nicely so it will cover those areas. This style can look pretty wild sometimes, but if you want to make it look tidy and neat you can always blow dry it and add some product.

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