A Tapered Beard Trim and a Fade with Contrast

—Josh Lawson

John is at Gentleman & Rogues Club to get his beard trimmed by Mahesh. Fun fact, he actually manages one of the pubs down the road, so he walks by all the time. He doesn't want much off the top, but he needs to keep it really short on the sides and a little bit of a weight line. They really want the distinction between the sides and the top. John wants a square beard, but also wants to keep the length. Mahesh is gonna take the weight out of the sides and really accentuate the front of the beard so it'll look longer and more squared. He'll trim in a scooping motion and just tidy it all up.

To start, they take a 0 guard, otherwise known as bare clippers, up to his temple. They make sure to go in at an angle so the beard stays in line. Mahesh continues to work around the head and mark out how short the hair is going to be, then blend up. He could take out all the weight with a 2, then go straight in, but since the hair is so short there really isn't a reason to do that. Instead, he goes straight in with the bare clippers, like we described before. He uses a little brush to keep the skin clear of all the hairs he trimming away. It really helps him see what he's doing.

Now, he switches over to a 1 and starts trimming away at the line. He moves the hair up by about an inch. John wants intentional lines there, so Mahesh leaves them for the time being. It's a pretty common look right at the moment, and you just gotta go with what the customer wants. The second line Mahesh makes (the one with the 1 guard) is the highest he wants to take the cut. In between those lines is where the fade happens. So he switches to a half guard, makes the skin tight, then softens up the blend by using the clippers in a circular pattern. Although John wants to show his weight line more than a typical haircut would, Mahesh still does a little bit of clipper over a comb just to make the edges a little neater.

For the beard, he stands straight in front of John and uses his forehand and backhand to trim both sides of the beard one stroke at a time. This allows him to see what the beard looks like while he trims, instead of having to switch back and forth. John has taken the time to grow out his beard, so Mahesh wants to be careful when trimming. He goes in with a 2, and works to taper in the area where the beard meets the bottom of the fade. The underneath is a little scraggly, so he takes the wisps off as there is no point in growing those out. To finish off, they tidy the mustache by trimming the hairs that fall over the lip. The main goal is to make sure it looks tidy and even.

Before leaving the shop, they just add some texture to the top of his hair so it gives more of a contrast between that and the sides. Then they use a little bit of Temple Smoke Beard Oil to give his beard a bit of sheen, moisturize the hairs, and use any left over for his hair to give it a matte finish with some texture.