Touching Up a Fade For the Best Look

—Josh Lawson

Ollie has been getting his hair cut by Josh at Gentleman & Rogues Club. For Ollie, they want to take it in really tight. Shave below the parting line, and have a really high fade. Then just over a fingers length on the top. This is mostly gonna be a touch-up cut as he ends up in the chair at least once every 2 weeks or so.

Josh stats with a 0 and makes his baseline all the way around the head and dipping down at the occipital bone. He tidies up the line and uses a fade brush, then takes a detailer to get rid of all the hair under that line. Josh pulls the skin to get a tighter cut as well. Then takes the foils to get an even closer shave around the back of the neck. A little trick to get a better shave with them is to pull the skin down instead of up. That way you can still see what you're doing and it won't mess up the line.

He flicks through the little line to start the fade process. Then he slowly works through the different guards and sizes to close the gap between the lines and create a seamless fade. He also uses scissors over comb to blend the area between the fade and the top. Then moves through areas he may have missed. Ollie's hair is quite short, so he goes through while using his fingers as a guard from front to back, then side to side to pick up any strays he may have missed.

For the side part Ollie likes it nice and thick, so Josh holds the top in place and moves the detailer in a back and forth motion. He comes in pretty frequently, so it never fully grows back. You can always see where it needs to be cut. Then he puts some clear shave gel in that trench and uses a straight razor to get an even closer cut. Ollie is gonna grow his beard, so they bring his sideburns to a point and tidy up the little neck hairs. Finish off with a final pass with the foils and a simple combing, then he's on his way home!

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