Trim, Fade, and Maintain A Squared Beard

—Wil Mouradian

Simon is at Gentleman & Rogue's Club to get a beard trim and fade from Charlie. Simon would like his beard sculpted into a square shape and faded into his hairline. The square shape cut will come straight down the sides of his face, ending in a box cut at the bottom of the beard, as well as a touch off the mustache so he can eat more easily.

First, Charlie starts by brushing the beard down so he can sharpen up the angles of the beard's outer edge to a clear box outline, including the 90-degree corner where the beard meets the jaw.

With a 1.5 guard, Charlie tightens the skin to trim from the bottom of the traigus (mid-ear) up the sideburn. From the midline of the traigus up the sideburn, he switches his trim to a 1.0 guard. Finally, from the top of the traigus to the top of the ear, Charlie uses a 0.5 guard. After this part of the fade is done, Charlie goes back to a 1.5 guard to clean up the entire length of the sideburn from the earlobe to the top of the ear.

Charlie takes the guard back down to a 2.0 again and gently drags the clippers down the outside of the beard at a perpendicular angle to Simon's face for a uniform beard surface.

Once the sides of the beard are blended and straight, Charlie combs out the bottom of the beard before using his scissors to cut straight across the beard's edge from the jaw to the chin. This style of straight beard allows for better accuracy when trimming it with scissors.

If you want to keep rockin' this square-cut look, following up with your barber once a month is ideal - while you'll want to shave your upper cheeks and touch up the jawline every couple of days. In Charlie's words - "Just follow the line to keep your beard's shape" when shaving your neck and upper cheeks.

Once the main cut is finished and trimmed, Charlie clips off fly aways and inconsistencies on the outside of the beard using his scissors. He then uses the corner of his clippers to trim Simon's mustache just enough so he can comfortably eat while maintaining his look.

Charlie's final touches start with a straight razor shave of the upper cheek area to sharpen the edges of the beard. He then finishes up with Old Money Utility Balm (Charlie's favorite) to moisturize the skin and beard and give Simon's newly shaped beard some hold.

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